The Comforts of Home

I am happy to report that I am feeling almost 100%!  It has been great to be back in San Salvador with some of the comforts we were craving.   Our first night back we found an American style restaurant and I went to town on a giant hamburger with fries and the whole nine yards.  It was divine.
Joe spoke of the UCA (University of Central America) and gave us a bit of history as the next day (yesterday) we were heading there to see what really went on during the Civil War.   It would be impossible for me to go into great detail with regards to this story, so if you are interested please google it on line,  but I will give you the Cole's Notes version.
In the late eighties, while a very violent and chaotic civil war was going on, there were 6 Jesuit Priests murdered, along with the housekeeper and her daughter.  This massacre took place on the grounds of the University.   It rocked not only El Salvador but all of Latin America.   Joe has visited this place several times in the past and was able to give us a guided tour.    There are glass cases preserving every detail of the massacre.   The blood stained  clothing that they were wearing at the moment they lost their lives as well as personal belongings including eye glasses and shoes.   I was left speechless.  Even with Joe's warning of how graphic this would be,  I was still rocked to my core.   There were even photo albums containing photos of the bodies after they had been beaten beyond recognition.  These images will never leave me.
Our taxi driver, Gino (Sandra's son) was 11 years old at the time of the massacre and as we head off toward the market, he goes into great detail of his childhood memories.   He can recall the sound of gunshots and his mother placing mattresses in front of the windows of their home as protection.  They lived in constant fear.
The fear that the El Salvadorians live with now is gang violence.   We are continually being told to stay away from certain areas of San Salvador and to be aware of our surroundings.  However,  to be perfectly honest with you I feel very safe here.   Perhaps it's just because we are sticking to the rules and not wandering too far.

Last night we had the privilege of visiting Sandra's home and meeting her family.  She lives in a tiny gated community.  When I say "gated",  I think of the gated communities in Florida but this is nothing like that.   It is a very poor area and security is necessary to keep them safe.   Sandra's home is spotless.  The minute you walk in you feel a strong sense of family.   Sandra lives with her mother, the cutest thing on this planet.   She is half my size and when offered a beer, she nods enthusiastically.  She is 81 years old and full of life.    Sandra's son, Boris also lives upstairs.

In the back ground, a symphony of 80's music played on CD's that have been burned and purchased for a dollar each on the black market.   We all  know the words to every song.  
We take a quick tour of Sandra's home.  It consists of two bedrooms on the main floor, a living/dining room and a kitchen, all of which are tiny.  At the back is a little garden where Sandra grows every fresh herb imaginable.  It smells incredible.  In the corner are 3 small turtles that are free to roam the garden.  This is common in El Salvadorian homes as the eggs are a delicacy, although Sandra does not have them for the eggs,  she just loves to be surrounded by nature.
Sandra's daughter, Ingrid begins to carry large platters to the table and we gorge ourselves on the best Seafood Paella I have ever tasted.

 And the best Papusa I have had so far, made by Sandra's brother who owns a Papuseria.  (A Papusa is a tortilla stuffed with cheese, beans and pork or any combination of the the three).
It starts to rain hard and Sandra's grandson's, Benjamin and Daniel are  starting to nod off so we hop in Gino's taxi once more and head back to the hotel.  It's after 10:00pm and believe it or not, we are usually in our beds by 10:00pm.    All four of use wake up around 5:30 every morning and by the end of the day we are exhausted.
Today is our last full day in El Salvador so we are going to finish up some shopping for the kids and head back to the market.   I failed to buy a gorgeous, colorful blanket yesterday and I haven't been able to get it out of my mind.   It's cloudy today and I look forward to being out of the scorching heat.

Special People and Special Moments

I am back!  So sorry to those who have been following faithfully.  We were in a place where we did not have internet access so I couldn't update.  And now I have so much to tell you.
When I last wrote I had just woken up from a very difficult night.  That was 3 days ago.   That freezing cold shower was the last one I had until now.  I have been living the simple life with Pam, Joe and Pancho.  No showers, no makeup, not even a comb through my hair.
We left Santa Catarina and that lovely hotel, Jardin de Celeste.  We said our goodbyes to the children at the school, the teachers, the families and Don Fernando.
I have had time to reflect on our experiences in the community and our project.   I was surprised by my own reaction to everything we faced.   I thought I was more than prepared to see what I was going to see.
But the truth is I wasn't prepared at all.    I thought we would show up in this place and start hammering away, building stoves.  It wasn't that simple.  Building a stove is a lot more complicated than that.  In truth, Don Fernando was the one building the stoves.  We provided the funds (with your help) to make it a reality.    We had the opportunity to see first hand how this affected these people and how grateful they were for something that we take for granted every single day of our lives.    The next time I whip up a pot of anything, I will think about it and appreciate it.  And I won't forget these people.

The teachers, that hike for miles and miles five days a week picking up little ones along the way on their hike to school and back.  There are 3 women and one gentleman working as teachers.    Their pay is next to nothing and yet they give absolutely everything they have inside to these kids.  They were gentle and loving and patient.
The children, many of them wearing shoes 4 or 5 sizes too big for them.   Most of them have never seen a toothbrush, with tiny teeth shaped like an hour glass, rotten to the core.

One in particular stole my heart.  His name is Herman.   I saw him standing away from all of the other children, shyly glancing over at me.   He was pressing his tummy against Don Freddy's truck so as to hide the front of his pants.  He had wet himself and didn't want anyone to see.    Eventually he made his way over to a little table to sit alone with a small plate of chicken that one of the teachers had brought over to him.   I made my way through the rain over to him and handed him a small piece of gum.   He accepted it and smiled widely.   I asked him several questions in my broken spanish but he didn't answer, he just smiled.   When I made my way back to the teachers table, they informed me that Herman could not speak.    He did not play with the other children, and was considered "special needs".   But believe me when I tell you that Herman was special but not in that way.  He understands everything he hears.  He uses his eyes to speak.   And he has so much to say.     He is kind and loving and I will never forget him.  I will never forget how he took both of my hands to help me into the back of the truck.   Or how he smiled from ear to ear when I kissed his cheek to say goodbye.  And how he looked over his shoulder at me as we drove off at the junction in the road, Herman going left, our truck turning right.

These are the moments that have changed me.   And even though this was the hardest thing I have experienced so far in my life, I wouldn't trade it for anything.
We are now back San Salvador with warm showers and even a place to do our laundry.   Tomorrow we will have a chance to explore the city fully.    A few more days and I intend to soak it all in.  I promise I will get some photos downloaded later tonight or tomorrow for sure!  Thanks so much for following along and sharing this journey with us.

Parental Discretion is Advised.

I shit my pants.  Twice.
Since Monday night I have been struggling with a terrible stomach bug.  I kept thinking it would go away but after a sleepless night I have started Antibiotics this morning.   Thankfully I am the only one.  I wouldn't wish this on my worst enemy.
Yesterday was tough.  Actually beyond tough.  I rode inside the truck this time as I didn't think my body could take the bumpy roads into the school.

Our first stop was Don Fernando's home.  We met two of his children and his wife and toured his property.  The floor of their home is dirt.  There are chickens, ducks, geese and turtles living amongst his family.   The broom in the corner is made of tree branches.  The plastic patio chair is missing a leg and has been replaced with a stick.  These are the chairs that we buy at Canadian Tire and we throw away when they crack.   The families that are receiving the stoves begin to arrive, one by one each with a young child in their arms.

We give them the kitchen packs we made consisting of donated aprons, a soup ladle, and several other kitchen utensils.  We dig out the barbies and toys from the bottom of the hockey bag for the little ones.   They accept the gifts but seem shy and often look away or at the ground.   I pray we have not embarrassed them or made them feel uncomfortable in any way.  That is not our intention.

After we finish meeting all of the families we jump back in the truck and head down the mountain to the school.
 When we arrived at the school the kids were wild with excitement.    It was "sports day" and they had a big soccer game planned for us.   We started walking to the soccer field, which is actually a pasture with patches of grass and mud.  And the odd cow patty that the kids manage to dodge effortlessly.   To get to this field we walked straight up a mountain, and I mean straight up.  The kids skip along having done this every day for who knows how long.  By the time we reached the field I was completely out of breath and in awe of these kids.   Most of them walk double or triple the distance to their homes every single day, straight up.

Within moments the pasture is a fury of kids, each doing whatever they can just to get a foot on the ball.
Pancho and Joe have jumped right in.   Pam stayed back at the school with the younger kids.
The sky clouds over after about an hour and the teachers said it was time to get back.  We had the kids line up and gave each of them a candy necklace.   Some gobbled them down and some wore them with pride.

Back at the school Don Freddy was waiting with his truck and there was a definite sense of urgency to get going.   The rain was coming.   He knew that if he didn't get his truck out of there we wouldn't be going anywhere until the rain subsided, and this could be hours or even overnight.
By the time we said our goodbyes to the beautiful teachers, it was too late.  We made it about half way to the main road and it was all over.   We hit a patch of slippery clay and the truck wasn't going anywhere.
The rain was torrential.   It was pounding down and we were soaked down to the bone.    We tried everything possible but that truck was not moving.  Don Fernando disappeared to his home at least a mile away and returned with a 100 pound bag of gravel on his back!    As he gets closer I can't help notice that his calves look like those of a hockey player, although I am fairly certain he has not played hockey a day in his life.   Behind Don Fernando came men.  One after another until there was over 15 there to help.  They attached  two ropes to the front of the truck and and we made two lines, one on each side.   We pulled in unison until our hands burned and we were completely exhausted.   All the while the rain pounded down on us.    They asked all of the women to get into the back of the truck to add some weight so we did.   Then they shoved tree branches, gunny sacks and more gravel under the tires.  I had given up, this was hopeless.    One last ditch effort and every ounce of energy left in those men, they pulled an pulled and god willing we started to move.  We cheered with excitement!
When we finally hit a solid patch of pavement, Don Freddy just gunned it and we kept on going until we were safely out.      Those that didn't manage to get into the truck sprinted behind.
Everyone was soaked and covered in mud and clay.   There were 17 people in the back of that truck laughing and cheering.   Even though I had given up hours ago, these people knew that we would get out.  This was just a normal day for them.    Don Fernando was truly our hero, our fearless leader and it was obvious how these people respected him.
We had an hour ride ahead of us back to the hotel and we were absolutely soaked.  We couldn't ride in the front cab of the truck so we toughed it out.   By the time we got to Jardin de Celeste I was frozen, sick and miserable.     I stood in the a freezing cold shower sobbing, my body convulsing from the cold and sheer exhaustion.  
Once again I failed to drink water during the day and we hadn't eaten for hours so I stuffed myself with hot chicken soup and enchiladas.  I didn't even taste them.
After dinner my tummy really started to act up and I was a mess.  I found myself in Pam and Joe's cabin  crying and asking to go home.     Pam talked me down off the roof and I crawled into my bed shivering and wanting my own bed, my own shower and my own kids.    This is much harder than I ever anticipated.   We are heading out of the area a day earlier than expected and the sun is shining this morning.    And I haven't shit my pants yet today, so things are looking up.

The Real Journey Begins

Our second full day in El Salvador and we are physically and emotionally exhausted.   We just finished our dinner at Jardin del Celeste and it’s only 6:00pm.   Pam and Joe have headed back to their cottage to rest, perhaps even call it a night.  

I had to write tonight because if I hold it all in until tomorrow morning I don’t think I will get any sleep.   Seated outside our little cottage, dark is falling upon me quickly.  The jungle songs are getting louder and louder.  The hammock that hangs beside me is tempting but I need to get these thoughts out of my head.

There are so many words that describe today.   Hope, strength, and love are just a few, but love is the one that plays the strongest in my mind.  

How did we end up here?   A bottle of wine in Joe’s kitchen a few months back and aspirations to do more with this life.    Why El Salvador?  It was Joe’s passion for this country and it’s people, and I get it.    And I am grateful that his passion touched me the way it did and that his passion got us here.  

Almost all of us have seen it in some form.   In Jamaica or the Dominican Republic, we have driven along on the way to our All-inclusive resorts and we pass these tiny little houses with tin roofs and windows covered in make shift bars, and it bothers us.   We feel guilt for having too much.   I have felt this many, many times.   But this time is different.   This time we have connected and it’s real for us, and the possibilities seem endless.

The school is about an hour away and the roads go from bad to worse.   With torrential rain comes washed out roads and challenges that the locals face every day.    Choosing to ride in the back of Don Freddy’s truck was the best decision once again as we felt alive from the moment we found our spots on the floor.   I am certain our bodies will be screaming at us in the morning as I can already feel things tightening up, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.

 

When we arrived at the school we were greeted by about 60 or 70 young children.   The youngest ran directly to Pam and I and offered each of us giant bouquets of beautiful flowers they had picked themselves from the lush gardens surrounding the school.  There was no hesitation as they threw their arms around us with genuine love.    I swallowed hard several times to keep my eyes from over flowing.   I looked over at Joe and he was overcome with emotion.  He was home.

We gave the teachers the two hockey bags filled with soccer cleats, jerseys, school supplies and toys.  They were beyond words with gratitude.    We gave a group of boys a soccer ball and one for the girls.  Both halves of the tiny concrete slab were full with kids of all ages dying for a chance to kick the ball.   The coach in Pam got the girls organized and we jumped in to play with them.    

By the time we finished playing in the scorching heat we had pretty much reached complete dehydration.  We left our bottled water in the back of the truck and in anticipation of heavy afternoon rains, Don Freddy had taken the truck down to the bottom of the mountain.   To leave it there would risk not getting out at the end of the day.  I was dying for a drink of anything!

Four young girls welcomed us with a beautiful dance and tossed fresh rose petals at us as we watched.   The youngest of the boys had a ball chasing the petals and throwing them at one another all the while bursting into fits of laughter!

The teachers invited us to sit at small tables under a tin canopy and brought us a lovely lunch consisting of home made chicken soup, roasted chicken and fresh tortillas.   I must admit I was hesitant to eat as my tummy has already given me some grief but I did my best to finish my plate.  (I did however, leave behind the two tiny chicken hearts hidden in my soup!)

After lunch we ventured away from the school to go and see the first family to receive one of our stoves.   I apologize for not knowing the names exactly, perhaps I will have this later on, but the father’s name is Edwin.  He has two young daughters, aged six and    

Three.   The old stove in the corner is spewing smoke, and after only a few moments I back out of the tiny kitchen into the fresh air.   It is obvious that this is not a healthy situation for a young family.   

Don Fernando is the hero of the community and he is the one who is spear heading the actual building of the stoves and there is much more to it than I ever anticipated.  He is our guide for this afternoon, and we follow him where ever he wants us to go.  We literally climb the side of a mountain to get to Edwin’s house.   He tells that he has chosen the families of the community that need the stoves the most.  They all have young children.  Edwin is smiling from ear to ear and we feel more than welcome to be here.

With the funds we have raised we knew for sure that we could fund at least 5 stoves, but in the week prior to our trip the money just kept coming in.   If I could hug each and every one of you who helped make this happen I would, and I want you to know how much I love you for it.

With the extra funds we were going to make at least one more stove, but today we had to make an executive decision.  We could make a couple more stoves or we could buy the tools needed to make several more stoves.   So we opted for the latter.   We purchased a welding machine and an electric drill.  This will take the project to a whole new level.  

Tomorrow we head back very early to the school as they have planned a “sports day” for us.  I am fairly certain this means a soccer game and a whole lot of sweating.  This time we won’t forget the Agua!

  

Paradise Found!

I have so much to tell you that I am not quite sure where to begin.  It took a bit for us to get organized first thing in the morning but this turned out to be a blessing for Pancho.   There were 3 Hondurans riding through El Salvador on giant motorcycles and they were staying at the Mediterranean Hotel with us.   He was like a fat kid in a candy shop.    Once they connected it was impossible to drag him away.   I am fairly certain there was a life long bond made and I love seeing Pancho so passionate about something he truly loves.
There is a beautiful lady named Sandra Quinteros who is the key player in making this project a reality for us.   She is the main contact and she makes things happen.   Great things really do come in small packages.  Sandra met us at the hotel and we started off toward Sonsanate in a comfortable little micro bus.  Her love for this country is contagious.

The first thing I notice as we head out of San Salvador is the roads.  They are perfect!   It's like they were just paved yesterday.   We have got to bring the Mayor of Winnipeg to come check this out.   Not one pothole.   As we head off into the country side things get a little more rugged and we start to see the locals scurrying along the roadsides, and the small "tiendas" selling fresh Mango and Coconuts.
Our first stop is Sonsanate where we meet the man of my dreams (sorry Pancho - but he stole my heart on impact).   His name is Don Freddy.  It's his eyes.  And his laugh.
Don Freddy's face is carved deep with lines and I am certain each one tells a story.   He is going to be our driver for the rest of our trip.   I feel instantly connected to him and understand why everyone loves Don Freddy.

Joe and I opt for the least comfortable and most exciting option for seating.   After dumping all of our stuff, including two giant bags filled with soccer cleats and jerseys in the back of Don Freddy's huge truck, we jump in the box and ease ourselves onto one of the bags.  As we make our way through tiny towns,   the children wave at us and we wave back.   Joe and I exchange glances, words aren't necessary.  I feel joyful.

We arrive at Jardin Del Celeste just in time.   The rain begins and it is torrential.   But we are safe under a lovely wooden canopy surrounded by the most beautiful, lush gardens I have ever seen.   The colors are breathtaking and I feel myself welling up.     I feel truly blessed.
We are a bit chilled so we start with a warm mulled wine and a lovely lunch consisting homemade tortillas  and fresh avocado with shrimp.   What a concept, guacamole with shrimp - you can bet you are all going to get to try this when I get home.

The rain finally lets up and we head into Ataco.  The streets are lined with little stores selling local wares and many of them are painted with colorful murals.   Our goal is cheap beer and "pan" (bread).   We scored on both accounts.
When we got back to the hotel we found a cozy spot under the canopy next to a wood burning fireplace with a lovely bottle of "vino tinto".  It was the perfect setting for story telling.   We asked Sandra about her country and the civil war that was not so long ago.  She and Don Freddy told us about the challenges they faced and the fears they lived with and how they have overcome both.  
 It is almost 10:00pm and we are exhausted.  Joe manages to get the stove going in his cottage (we are expecting an explosion any minute) and he warms the bread and lights the candles he had purchased in the market earlier and we reflect on the trip so far.  After only one day, we already have so many thoughts to share with each other.  The anticipation of today and our first visit to the school is almost dizzying.    We may get to meet some the families that are receiving the stoves later today, but I have already learned that things don't always go as planned.  So I will just wait and see what happens!

First Impressions

As promised, here is my first ever blog!

 Most of you know how much I like to talk so this should work out just fine.  If I close my eyes at this very moment, I am surrounded by an orchestra of local song.  There's the chirping of the tropical birds and the rustle of the giant palm leaves, but adding to this song is the buzz of the city just outside the wall of our hotel.
San Salvador is somewhat of a walled city in that most places are surrounded by some kind of concrete wall usually topped with razor wire.    Now I don't want to give the impression that it is a prison of sorts, but there is definitely a strong sense of the need to be careful and aware of what's going on around you.  I have felt this before in other third world countries, but here you just know that you aren't to be flashing about with your new iphone or fancy camera.
This however doesn't squash the giddy feeling I have through my whole body at the prospect of exploring this country.
As I sit outside under a tattered umbrella, facing a dirty old pool that has seen much better days I am awed by my lush surroundings.   Directly above me hang literally hundreds, if not a thousand Mangos in all stages of ripeness.  I can't  help but think about the ones I bought back home in Winnipeg a few weeks ago for $1.99 each.   If only I were taller I could reach up and take my share for free.

Even the lack of hot water for my very brief shower this morning and the concrete pillow that held my head last night cannot take away the obvious charm of this place.   My face already hurts from smiling each time one of the "muchachos" from the hotel greets us with a heart felt "Buenas Dias".   They are genuine and warm and the reason Joe chose this hotel.

After a delightful breakfast of scrambled eggs, refried beans (the best I have ever tasted, and I may pay for my over indulgence later today), we are heading off to Ataco.  

This is where we will check into our home for the next few days.  I must admit I searched it out on Trip advisor (that's the travel agent in me) and I am thrilled at the prospect of staying in a tiny cottage surrounded by flowers.  It's called the Jardin del Celeste.  I will tell you more about it later.   We have a couple hours in a car ahead of us and I just want to get going.   I have been pacing for the last half hour.   Let the adventure begin!

We are getting together to change the lives of many families in Santa Catarina de Masahuat.  Pam, Joe, Darcie and Pancho will be travelling to this small community in El Salvador to build stoves.

A Stove is a hearth, considered an integral part of a home, often its central or most important feature. We are planning on helping build as many as we can.